Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Everyday Yumminess: Perfect Sous Vide Mayo

Hello, there.  It's been a while since I've posted here.  I've still been having fun in the kitchen, but things have changed such that I now have a partner-in-crime who distracts me from taking pictures and noting changes I make to recipes...  I've been more about enjoying the cooking than documenting the cooking, which anyone who loves cooking knows isn't a bad thing... Anyway, this is something I came across a few months back in Modernist Cuisine at Home that totally rocked my world: Modernist Mayo.  It's rich, decadent, bullet-proof (emulsion-wise), and actually easy...  Things start with 75g of egg yolks (5 or so...).
Those are vacuum-sealed and cooked sous vide for 35 minutes at 67°C.  (Reading the recipe now, I was apparently supposed to blend them first, but in 5 times making this I've never done that and it's always turned out perfectly, so...) The yolks get all smushified, anyway, when you vacuum seal them, and come out pretty well mixed anyway...
Meanwhile, you'll stir together some (45g) water and Dijon (25g) in a mixing container.  When the yolks are ready, you immersion-blend them to smoothness, then start drizzling in about 300g of neutral oil in (while running your immersion blender.
I made this little immersion-blending-lid after one too many experiences making traditional mayo, when it ended up sprayed halfway across my kitchen...  It turns out this lid is completely superfluous with Modernist Mayo, given the thick texture... When the oil has been emulsified, you can season to taste (I like a little lemon juice and salt), and you have on your hands a batch of perfect mayo...
(This also happens to be the perfect base for Fry Sauce and Sriracha Mayo... but we'll talk abou that later...)  Back soon with more yumminess...  

2 comments:

Dominik MJ said...

I am just curious - why don't you directly sous vide the whole eggs - it is so much easier [and you are saving your plastic bags] - and even dividing egg yolk from egg white is easier, if you sous vide them!
And why are you sous viding them on 67ºC?
Is there are specific reason?
57ºC should be enough, to pasteurize the eggs - or at least around 63ºC would give you a still rather liquid egg yolk...

emmo said...

Hi Dominik,

The short answer to both of your questions is "because Modernist Cuisine told me to." =)

The better answers: I never considered just cooking whole eggs and separating, but I guess I would worry about puncturing the custardy-yolk while peeling away the semi-cooked white. Maybe it's a genius idea, I just never thought of it. I may have to try it...

As far as temperature, it has nothing to do with pasteurizing. (I don't bother to pasteurize when I make raw egg mayo, honestly, since I know where my eggs come from.) The 67ºC gives you an extremely custardy yolk, which makes your mayo emulsion almost bullet-proof. It comes together incredibly quickly and easily and would be very difficult to break (in my experience).

Cheers,
Emily