Sunday, June 28, 2009
First Full Day in Portland...
Thursday, June 25, 2009
I Choose Not to Believe...
You rock those short pants, sir... You rock 'em...
What I Did Several Days Ago...


Andrew Bird was absolutely amazing. He's so freaking talented, it blows my mind when see him in action. (I also suspect that he is the reason I seem to find tall, scrawny guys with slightly odd-looking faces ridiculously attractive...) He kills me... Aside from his amazing voice, ridiculous whistling prowess, crazy violin skills, and guitar-playing ability, the guy is a fanatastic songwriter and is absolutely charming and hilarious when he talks to the crowd. I heart him. (And, since he chose to do a second encore, I choose to believe that he hearts me, at least in my member-of-a-crowd-of-obsessed-fans capacity, too...) Here's a music video of one of my favorite songs of his, for the uninitiated:

After spending most of the afternoon dealing with that, I decided to grill up a nice summer dinner even though it was dreary, muggy, and sprinkling outside. Corn was $6/dozen at Russo's, and was ridiculously delicious despite the fact that it's often not in season here for a couple more weeks. I made a ginger "BBQ" sauce for pork tenderloins, grilled off the pork and some scallions, and grilled off the corn for use in my "Grilled Creamed Corn" which is actually really healthy (made with milk, not cream) and combines the deliciousness of basil and shallots with the grilled corn to make a perfect summer side dish. I will post the recipe at my other blog one of these days, because it's deifnitely one of my favorites. Anyway, here's how things turned out:


Monday, June 15, 2009
Happy Birthday to Me!!!
The first of these was Salmon Tartare with Red Onion Crème Fraîche on a Savory Sesame Tuille (basically using the French Laundry recipe for their famous cornets, but saving myself the finger-burningly tedious rolling process by making flat tuille wafers instead of cones). These were very rich but also very delicious.
The second hors d'oeuvre was Grilled Pancetta-Wrapped Peaches (a slice of a yummy summer peach and a basil leaf wrapped in pancetta and cooked on the grill). I lack the proper temperament for dealing with peaches (the peeling, the removing of the stone...), but Lisa was kind enough to take the reigns on this dish, and it turned out amazing. The recipe called for sautéing the wrapped peaches in olive oil, but that seemed like a pretty stupid thing to do so we threw them on the grill instead, which added a lovely smokiness. This will definitely be added to the list of favorite summer appetizers.
The final starter was the Emily-style classic, Fava Bean Crostini (fresh blanched fava beans and fresh ricotta on grilled baguette slices with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of sea salt), which were light, fresh, and delicious. Yay, summer fruits and veggies!
In an effort to avoid people being way too full by the end of the meal, the soup course was Clear Gazpacho Shots. These are something I had several years ago when my brother took me to Quantum in Santa Barbara (back when it was an awesome restaurant) for my birthday. I wrote to Gourmet magazine to request the recipe, and a few weeks later I got a copy of it in the mail. They never published it (probably thinking most of their readers couldn't be bothered to do the 2 days of prep), but it's become one of my favorite palate-cleansing soups. It's a clear liquid, but packed with the essence of all the fresh veggies you would find in a typical gazpacho. Yummy (and pretty)...
The salad course was a Watermelon and Arugula Salad with Feta, Red Onion, and a Balsamic Vinaigrette. This is another dish where Lisa took charge (while I dealt with some last minute prep for the main course), including having brought some awesome arugula from her home garden. None of us were really sure how this was going to turn out, but it was really quite delicious. I got a nice barrel-aged goat cheese at Russo's and luckily managed to select a really ripe and delicious watermelon. The peppery arugula, juicy sweet watermelon, tangy goat cheese, and tart balsamic all married beautifully. This was a really nice summer salad.
To pace ourselves before the main course, I served up some Strawberry-Basil Sorbet, which is one of my favorite healthy homemade frozen desserts.
The main course was a dish I had practiced (and posted about) a couple weeks ago: Citrus-Marinated Salmon with a Confit of Navel Oranges and Pea Shoot Coulis. This turned out even better this time around, and was by far the star of the show. I already spoke about it quite a bit in my other post, and this is getting long, so I'll just say: Wow. This was awesome.
Dessert was Chocolate Oblivion Truffle Torte, which I have also posted about previously. This is probably my favorite chocolate dessert EVER, in part because it is so very easy to make.
All in all it was a really great night, in part because of the fact that I'm friends with such totally awesome people. Funny how old 30 sounds when you're 15 years old, and how not-old it actually feels when you get there...Wine Tasting, a Concert, and a Programming Note
On Wednesday I headed back down to the House of Blues to see Jenny Lewis. I wish she'd done a bit more of her acoustic stuff (in part because it was awesome when she did it, and in part because we were seated very very close to the speakers and her acoustic songs were less deafening...), but overall I really enjoyed the show, while not being particularly blown away by it...
Finally, a quick programming note: Weekly Bunnies is taking the week off, and will return next week as Fortnightly Bunnies... I'm thinking less than half of my posts on this nominally food-centered blog should be about how cute my rabbits are...
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Worst. Concert. Ever.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Random Thoughts on a Wednesday Afternoon

- There is a distinct possibility that my 80-year old neighbor is either dating Popeye, dating a man who believes he is Popeye, or is actually single but believes that she is dating Popeye (who only she can see). I realize the first option there is definitely the least probable, but given the evidence (a love note from Popeye on the dashboard of her car, a Popeye self-portrait with affectionate sign-off on the white board she keeps on the back door) it's probably too soon to say. She is quite the odd duck, so I wouldn't put anything past her. She occasionally bangs on my door while yelling my name in order to ask me things, and often I don't bother to answer because I cannot fathom why she is doing so. Once I ignored her knocking and largely forgot about the incident, until I opened the door to leave for work the next morning and found on my doorknob a grocery bag containing one orange, one apple, and one box of Thin Mints. I am still trying to figure that one out... She cracked me up most recently when asking me to bring in her mail this week while she's away. I didn't think this was a particularly complicated request, but she kept giving more and more details, including pointing to the plastic bag in which I'd brought my lunch to work and saying "Oh! And maybe you can save that bag and use it to put my mail in?" as if I might otherwise... Actually, I have no idea what her fear was if she didn't specify a bag in my possession that I could use for mail-gathering. Seriously, lady. I have a freaking PhD. I think I can handle this... Anyway, sweet, eccentric old ladies who may or may not be dating Popeye make better neighbors than loud college kids, so I can't really complain...

- I find myself perplexed these days by the etiquette of holding doors open for people. I am seldom isolated while approaching the main entrance at work, and the spacing between people tends to vary considerably. There are times when you should obviously hold the door open for the person behind you, times when you "clearly" don't need to hold the door open for them, and times when it doesn't seem (to me) like you need to hold the door open but then you realize you were wrong and there is awkwardness when the person you didn't hold the door for catches up to you at the elevator... I put "clearly" in quotes because about 70% of the time when I feel I am way too far behind a person for them to hold the door for me, they will actually stop in their tracks and stand there holding the door open until I walk through. (It is typically the men who do this.) This is where I start to feel like I'm maybe confused about the etiquette of this situation. My policy has always been that (assuming the door isn't going to lock behind me and the person behind me does not have their hands full) I only hold the door open if doing so does not require me to stop walking. I will slow down or maybe give the door an extra shove backward if a person is just a little too far behind me, but that's as far as I'm willing to go. Any thoughts on this? Does this make me a bad person? Is it actually only men who are supposed to feel socially obligated to hold doors open for people?

- Because this is theoretically a blog about food, I should probably mention a random food thing... I had one of my very favorite breakfasts on Sunday: eel. It's really one of my favorite foods in general, actually, but it makes an extra-awesome breakfast... (It's probably my second-favorite breakfast on the planet behind Eggs Benedict... and it's a very close second.) This is basically a convenience food. You buy frozen barbecued eel at your favorite Asian grocery (you can buy bone-in frozen raw eel sometimes, too, but that's a lot more work than I'm willing to put in on a leisurely Sunday morning), make a batch of sushi rice, make some spicy mayo (mayo, lots of Sriracha, and a few drops of sesame oil), microwave the eel, and plate it up. Near-instant awesome breakfast:

Tuesday, May 26, 2009
The Good and the Bad of Restaurant Cookbooks
Due to a hard-to-pass-up sale ($5.49/lb.), I ended up with a two pet lobsters on Saturday. Their names were Bob and Mr. Pinchy. I wanted them to look good for their photo op, so I ran them a nice hot bath... but, as you can see from the picture above (that's Bob on the right), I apparently had the temperature too high. I think Bob and Mr. Pinchy would have wanted me to make the most of this tragic situation, so I decided to make a recipe from Alfred Portales' "12 Seasons Cookbook" that I'd been wanting to make for years but had never gotten around to (and had never had 2 lobsters at my disposal to make). The lovely picture in the book looks like this:
(We'll come back to that in a minute...) After dismantling Bob and Mr. Pinchy, I had a good-sized bowl of lobster meat:
I made a quick batch of mayonnaise to use in the dressing
then chopped the lobster meat and set it aside along with some diced steamed beets, celery, and fingerling potatoes, a chiffonade of romaine, and a bit of the mayo. (Look at all that lobster!):
This is where I start to have some issues with Mr. Portales. Let me begin by saying that I understand food photography and I know that pictures in cookbooks tend to be an idealized, arranged-with-tweezers version of what the dish could look like at it's finest. (One of the nice things about books photographed by Petrina Tinslay, who does all of Donna Hay's books among others, is that the food looks absolutely gorgeous but in a natural, un-fussed-with way...) Alfred Portales apparently sort of made a name for himself by plating tall stacks of carefully arranged food in his restaurant back in the day - a style which has since gone out of fashion (along with serving food in martini glasses... ahem) - so I was prepared for fussy presentations in his pictures. What I wasn't prepared for was reading a recipe's instructions and seeing that they could not possibly result in anything even remotely resembling the pictured dish, as was the case with this lobster salad. I had never cooked with beets before, but even I knew that if I were to toss everything on the above plate together (as the recipe instructs), I would end up with a hot pink mess. (You will note the absence of said hot pink hue in the book's photo.) I actually did this to one serving just to confirm my suspicion (yep... hot pink...), then opted to just sprinkle the beets over the plated lobster salad for a less fluorescent version (served with thinly sliced avocado):
You can still see a few hot pink spots from where a beet barely touched the salad as it tumbled past... This is the type of chef recipe that can seriously irritate a (high-strung) person, and I'll probably hesitate to open that book to find a good recipe in the future... It also wasn't substantially better than just dipping the damn lobster in some melted butter, which isn't really acceptable given the amount of tedious prep involved in making this dish. (Especially relative to the alternative recipe, which is: Cook lobster. Melt butter. Combine in desired proportions as you eat.) Anyway... On to the good...
Above is the cookbook photo of the Citrus-Marinated Salmon with a Confit of Navel Oranges and Pea Shoot Coulis (the coulis is in the gravy boat in the picture) from Thomas Keller's French Laundry Cookbook. I'll save you the suspense and let you know right now that mine will not look like the dish in the picture (if only because mine is not topped with $100 of caviar), but it could. What I love about Keller's cookbooks is that he'll tell you exactly what you need to do to make your own version of the amazing food that comes out of the French Laundry kitchen. Whether you can find the quality of meat and produce that his purveyors bring him (you can't) or have the technical skills and patience of the team of chefs involved in the preparation of each dish (your probably don't) is another story... I tend to opt out of following his fussier instructions when cooking for myself, but I appreciate that they're there in case I have a few extra hours on my hands and want to try to blow a dinner guest's mind...
This is actually a pretty easy recipe, as far as this book is concerned. A side of salmon is covered in a marinade of sugar, salt, white pepper, and zest of limes, lemons, oranges, and grapefruit, then lightly weighted and left to cure for ~3 hours in the refrigerator. Meanwhile, you supreme the oranges and confit the segments in simple syrup with a splash of vinegar. The pea shoots (uncooked in the picture on the right above) are blanched, puréed, and strained, then loosened with a little butter just before serving. When the time comes to cook the salmon, you rinse off the marinade, pat the salmon dry, then allow it to come to room temperature for ~45 minutes.
The recipe calls for poaching the fish in olive oil 110°F at this point, and this is one place where I chose to go astray (largely because I didn't want to be left with a gallon of salmon-infused olive oil that I would end up having to throw away). I decided, instead, to get all trendy and make my first-ever attempt at using the much-touted sous-vide method. For this, I rubbed the salmon portions with olive oil (to get a little of the flavor that the poaching would have provided) then vacuum-sealed them in a pouch. I heated a water bath to 110°F using my free (family-discount at a yard sale) electric wok rather than the $900 thermal immersion circulators that masters of the technique use. I cooked the salmon for 10 minutes (the wooden skewers are in there just to make sure the packet doesn't touch the bottom of the wok, which may be warmer than the desired 110°F).
The wok held the temperature perfectly (which was a pleasant surprise since I had been pondering more expensive alternatives). I plated a small pool of the pea shoot coulis, topped it with navel orange segments, then laid the salmon across the top and garnished with chives:
(Next time I'll make the citrus powder to sprinkle around, which I totally forgot this time.) No points for French-Laundry-like presentation but, like I said, this is largely due to my refusal to properly follow directions... This was a really interesting dish. The salmon looks raw but is completely cooked, and is somewhat reminiscent of the best gravlox you've ever had in your life. The bright fruitiness of the orange segments and the fresh vegginess (?) of the pea shoot coulis were a great compliment to the salmon... If only I'd had an extra $100 burning a hole in my pocket with which to buy some caviar, this may have approached genius... I guess my point here is that, among other things, I appreciate that Thomas Keller never tries to make me turn a lovely plate of ingredients into a hot pink mess.Sunday, May 24, 2009
Awesomeness Personified
Above are my camera-phone pictures from the show... taken with my phone's truly pathetic resolution. (The band was much closer in person, as well as being less pixelated...) The picture on the bottom right is an attempt to show the piano/keyboard guy working his accordion. This was my first time seeing a rock accordion, and I hope it is not my last. They were also sporting a horns section, and the occasional lead-guitar-goes-over-to-be-the-second-piano-player situation. I find I prefer live shows from bands with a bit of instrumental diversity. And, damn... I could listen to the lead singer all day. Which, in fact, I pretty much did today. You know it was a good show when the first thing you do is go home and listen to the albums every chance you get... and spend the rest of the day singing the songs in your head... Just: wow. Monday, May 18, 2009
Food, Wine, and Friends...
Sarah came by early to be my wing-man in the kitchen (since Steph was too lame to fly over from Santa Barbara to help out...) and expertly folded the awesome phyllo triangles (embiggened below so you can marvel at her craftsmanship), as well as bringing some awesome fresh corn and asparagus to throw on the grill.
I think the Miniature Jalapeño Soufflés (or "Little Spicy Cupcakes," as a friend in Melbourne called them) were probably the favorite thing I made (the smoked salmon and dill spread that a friend brought was pretty darned tasty as well)... There were a couple culinary hiccups, primarily due to working with different ingredients than I'm used to (the cheddar I used wasn't as good as the Tillamook extra sharp vintage white that I like to use when on the West coast, and the blue cheese in the Chicken Liver and Blue Cheese Pâté was WAY stronger than the kind I usually use, so that turned out a lot more funky-stinky-cheesy than usual... I still actually liked it in a strange way, but it's not at all what I intended to serve to guests, and I didn't get a chance to taste the chilled version and discover this until after guests had come and gone... oh, well...)
There was pretty good variety in the wines, with selections from Cali and Oregon. Surprisingly, Oregon (Erath in particular) really got its ass kicked in the blind tasting. We had an Erath 30th Anniversary Pinot from 2000 (which almost certainly suffered from over-cellaring...) that retailed for $30 at the time it was purchased and a 2007 Erath that sells for ~$15 in stores. These were the two least favorite wines of the bunch. Another Oregon Pinot came in 3rd-to-last, but it suffered from following the night's winner: a wine we would sometimes refer to as "Forty Buck Chuck," (referencing, of course, Two Buck Chuck from Trader Joe's and the fact that this wine, the Carlson Pinot Noir, was the work of winemaker Chuck Carlson (whose winery I used to work for in Santa Barbara) and cost... $40). This was the 2004 Santa Rita Hills vintage, and it is one damn fine Pinot, I must say... Foxen (also from Santa Ynez) performed admirably as well with a 2004 Santa Maria Valley Pinot. These were both from my stash (as was the more expensive loser from Erath) and weren't necessarily something you can find in stores (especially over here). The other front-runner, however, was the Sterling Vintner's Collection 2007 Central Coast Pinot - a bargain at $15 and much easier to track down at your local wine store...
I went with a pretty easy meal for dinner on Sunday to make up for hanging out in the kitchen scaring Pedro so much on Saturday: Warm Chicken with Lemon Couscous. This is a Donna Hay recipe that makes me very happy, and is super-summery... just in time for a low of 36°F tonight... The grilled lemon is sort of brilliant, and the sage, capers, lemon zest, and almonds in the couscous are an awesome accompaniment to the grilled chicken.
I also had to test out a new (free! woohoo!) ice cream maker tonight, so I made a batch of the most ridiculously simple yet delicious frozen yogurt. You basically just get out a bowl and dump in two 500g tubs of Fage yogurt (I used one 0% fat and one 2% fat) plus 3/4 cup of suger (I would use less next time, I think) and a 12-ounce bag of mostly-thawed-then-mushed-in-the-bag frozen fruit (I went with blueberries) then stir to combine:
Freeze per your ice cream maker's instructions (I know you're not supposed to have solids in there the whole time, but I didn't feel like puréeing the blueberries or separating juices from solids after mushing them up in the bag, so I just dumped it all in there...) and you have delicious and healthy frozen yogurt:
Not bad for 2 minutes of work and 25 minutes of waiting for it to churn... Imagine the possible variations once summer berries are here...